March 2026
Chain
Sunita Shekhawat Jewellery
Portrait of a Man With a Gold Chain
Join us this month for a dive into the rich history of chain making.
Chains are a ubiquitous element throughout the history of jewelry, decorating the body from ancient times to modern day. Classic in their form, the simple repetition of metal links or rings represent a fundamental unit beautiful in their own right and continuously iterated upon.
Queen Puabi's Headdress Courtesy of Penn Museum
The earliest chains were found in Babylonia dating back to around 2500 BC excavated from the royal tomb of Queen Puabi. They were constructed using the “loop-in-loop” method, a way of connecting links without the need to solder. Over time, a number of styles evolved alongside more precise soldering techniques, as seen across ancient Rome, Greece, Western Asia, and Egypt. Chains during ancient times were primarily formed in gold, decorated with gemstones and charms and were used both in headdresses and to adorn the body.
Pair of Japanese Chainmail Sleeves
15th ct German Face Defense of Mail
The structural integrity of chains proved to be advantageous in battle, with multiple cultures independently developing chainmail armor. Chain mail expands upon the idea of consecutively attached links, instead connecting rings of metal into more intricate patterns, including flat weaves and hexagonal grids. Made from wrought iron, bronze, or steel, the material proved flexible yet strong, used by the Japanese, Celts, Romans, and Byzantine empires. Development of this material did not stop there, with new technological advancements leading to the utilization of chainmail by butchers and even as shark-proof attire for scuba divers.
Collar Composed of the Letters "S" and "M"
15th ct British
During the Renaissance, chains were used to advertise one’s affiliation with a group or individual. These chains, known as livery collars were heavy with a strung pendant featuring personalized insignia. One of the most famous pieces was the Collar of Esses worn by Henry IV, representing ties to his father the Duke of Lancaster. Similar chains were distributed amongst high ranking authorities in government.
Heraldic Chain with Pendant
17th ct Italian
As time went on, chains continued to represent wealth while Europe gained power during the Renaissance, expanding trade globally through imperialism. In Italy, strings of chains were flaunted around the neck and some chains even had links which corresponded to the value of currency, being disengaged as needed and used as payment.
Women Laborers in Chain Making Factory 1800s England
The Industrial Revolution led to the capability to mass produce chains, significantly reducing the amount of labor that was previously necessary in handmaking and connecting each and every link. Fine gold was swapped for more affordable alternative metals and chains became a fashion statement. By the 1980s, the chain eventually evolved to become a fixture in various countercultural movements, from hip hop to punk scenes, and today adapts to the expressive desires of its wearers.
70s Punk Scene
Run-DMC: Ricky Powell, Paris, 1987
An eternally dynamic symbol for the highs and lows of civilization, chains remain a staple. If you’re interested in commissioning a jewelry piece using chain but don’t know where to start, we would be happy to be your missing link.
